Before buying a used car, run a PPSR history check ($2), inspect the exterior and interior for damage, check under the bonnet for leaks and fluid condition, and take it for a test drive. Even if everything looks fine, a professional pre purchase car inspection is the only way to catch hidden mechanical faults, frame damage, and fault codes that DIY checks miss.
Do this before you waste time travelling to inspect a car.
Step 1 — Run a PPSR check ($2)
The Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) is the Australian Government’s official database. For just $2, it tells you if the car:
- Has outstanding finance owing on it
- Has been written off (accident or natural disaster damage)
- Has been reported stolen
- Has any security interests been registered against it
- Important: Run the PPSR check twice — once when you find the car, and again on the day of purchase. Details can change between searches.
You’ll need the car’s VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) — a 17-character code stamped on a metal plate in the engine bay or door pillar.
Also check:
- Service history/logbook — is it stamped and up to date?
- Registration papers — do the VIN and plate match the car?
- Number of previous owners — more owners can mean more wear
- Red flag: No service history, mismatched VIN, or a PPSR result showing finance owing or a write-off. Walk away.
We Include the PPSR Check. You Don't Have to Think About It
Get the full vehicle history and inspection in one report — no extra checks needed
Every GPS pre-purchase inspection comes with a PPSR and car history report built in — so you get the full picture in one report, not three separate checks.
Step 2 — Exterior Body Inspection
Park the car in good natural light and walk slowly around it.
What to look for:
- Panel gaps — uneven gaps between doors, bonnet, and boot suggest the car has been in an accident and repaired
- Paint mismatches — stand at the front and look along the side of the car. Different shades or textures between panels indicate respraying
- Overspray — check rubber seals, door hinges, and bumpers for paint where it shouldn't be
- Rust — check wheel arches, door sills, and the underside of the boot
- Dents and scratches — minor ones are normal; deep creases suggest impact damage
- Tyres — check tread depth (minimum legal depth in Australia is 1.6mm, but replace at 3mm), look for uneven wear (sign of alignment or suspension issues), and check for cracks or bulges in the sidewalls
- Lights and glass — check all lights work and look for chips or cracks in the windscreen
- Pro tip: Uneven panel gaps and paint variations are the most reliable visual signs of accident history. Take your time — don't rush this step.
Step 3 — Interior Inspection
- Get inside and check everything systematically.
Dashboard and electrics:
- Turn the ignition on (without starting the engine) — all warning lights should briefly illuminate, then go off
- Check that no warning lights stay on after starting
- Test air conditioning, heating, and all vents
- Check the infotainment system, Bluetooth, and reversing camera
Seats and trim:
- Seat wear inconsistent with the odometer reading is a red flag for odometer fraud (a 50,000km car shouldn't have heavily worn seat bolsters)
- Check seatbelts — they should retract smoothly and lock under a sharp pull
- Look for water stains on carpets, under mats, and in the boot
- Smell the interior — musty or mouldy odours suggest water or flood damage
Steering wheel and pedals:
- Heavy wear on the steering wheel, gear knob, and pedals on a supposedly low-mileage car is suspicious
- Check that the steering wheel is straight when driving in a straight line
- Look for water stains on carpets, under mats, and in the boot
- Smell the interior — musty or mouldy odours suggest water or flood damage
- Red flag: Any warning lights that stay on, water stains on carpets, or wear that doesn't match the odometer.
Step 4 — Engine Bay Inspection
Pop the bonnet and check these items with the engine cold (before the seller starts it).
Fluids:
- Engine oil — pull the dipstick and wipe it clean, then reinsert and check. The oil should be amber to dark brown. Milky or foamy oil suggests coolant contamination (head gasket issue)
- Coolant — should be green, blue, or orange (depending on type). Brown or rusty coolant indicates corrosion inside the cooling system
- Brake fluid — should be clear to light yellow. Dark fluid means it hasn't been changed in a long time
- Power steering fluid — check level and condition (if the car has hydraulic steering)
Visual checks:
- Look for oil stains or wet patches on the engine block, hoses, and underneath the car
- Check rubber hoses and belts for cracks, fraying, or swelling
- Look for corrosion on battery terminals
- Check that the engine number matches the registration papers
- Warning: A freshly steam-cleaned engine bay can hide leaks. If the engine looks unusually clean on an older car, ask why.
Step 5 — Underneath the Car
This is where most buyers stop — and where most hidden problems hide.
Get as low as you safely can and look for:
- Oil or fluid leaks — fresh stains on the ground beneath the car
- Rust on the frame rails — surface rust is common, but structural rust (flaking, pitting, or holes) is dangerous and expensive
- Suspension components — look for torn rubber boots on CV joints and ball joints
- Exhaust condition — rust, holes, or loose sections
- Underbody rust — especially on older vehicles or those from flood-prone areas
- The honest truth: Most buyers cannot safely or thoroughly inspect underneath a car without a hoist. This is one of the biggest reasons professional inspections exist — inspectors use a lift to check every inch of the undercarriage.
This Is Where DIY Checks Stop — And Ours Start
Go beyond DIY — get a full underbody inspection before you buy
Most buyers can’t safely inspect the undercarriage without a hoist. GPS inspectors lift every car and check every inch of the underside — frame rails, suspension, exhaust, and more — before you hand over a cent.
Step 6 — Test Drive
Never skip the test drive, and make sure it includes:
At low speed:
- Turn the steering wheel to full lock in both directions — listen for clicking (worn CV joints)
- Brake firmly from 30km/h — the car should stop straight with no pulling or grinding
- Listen for clunks over speed bumps (suspension wear)
At highway speed:
- Check the car tracks straight without pulling to one side
- Accelerate firmly — no hesitation, misfires, or excessive smoke from the exhaust
- Check gear changes are smooth (automatic) or that the clutch engages cleanly (manual)
- Listen for rattles, vibrations, or unusual engine noise at different speeds
After the drive:
- Check for warning lights that appeared during the drive
- Look underneath for fresh fluid drips
- Let the engine idle for a few minutes and listen for rough idling or knocking
- Red flag: Any grinding, knocking, pulling, or warning lights during the test drive. These are not "small issues" — they are signs of real problems.
This Is Where DIY Checks Stop — And Ours Start
Go beyond DIY — get a full underbody inspection before you buy
Your DIY Used Car Inspection Checklist
Print this out and take it with you.
Before you arrive:
- PPSR check completed (finance, write-off, stolen)
- Service history/logbook requested
- Registration papers match VIN
Exterior:
- No panel gap misalignment
- No paint colour mismatch or overspray
- No structural rust on body panels
- Tyre tread above 3mm, no uneven wear
- All lights working
- No windscreen chips or cracks
Interior:
- No warning lights after starting
- All electronics working (AC, windows, locks)
- No water stains or musty smell
- Seat and pedal wear match odometer
Engine bay:
- Oil is amber/brown (not milky or black)
- No coolant leaks or corrosion
- No visible oil leaks on the engine block
- Hoses and belts in good condition
Test drive:
- Brakes straight and firm
- No pulling to one side
- Smooth gear changes
- No unusual noises at any speed
- No warning lights during drive
This Is Where DIY Checks Stop — And Ours Start
Done the checks? Now get expert confirmation before you commit
What DIY Inspections Miss — And Why It Matters
Even a careful DIY inspection has real limits. Here’s what only a professional can reliably find:
GPS Vehicle Inspections’ data from over 37,000 completed inspections shows customers save an average of $3,500 in repair costs by catching hidden issues before purchase.
A professional inspection typically costs $200–$350. That’s a small price compared to the cost of discovering a major mechanical fault after you’ve signed the papers.
- The bottom line: DIY checks are a great first filter. But a professional inspection is the only way to know for certain what you're buying.
Common Red Flags — When to Walk Away
Stop the inspection and reconsider if you find:
- Mismatched paint across multiple panels — significant accident history
- Milky engine oil — likely head gasket failure ($2,000–$5,000+ repair)
- Grinding or spongy brakes — immediate safety risk
- Transmission slipping or jerking — major repair or replacement needed
- Structural rust on frame rails — dangerous and often uneconomical to repair
- Odometer wear inconsistency — possible fraud
- PPSR showing finance owing — the bank can repossess the car even after you buy it
- Seller refuses a professional inspection — this alone is a major red flag
Should You Get a Professional Inspection?
Yes — especially if:
- The car is over $10,000
- You're buying privately (no dealer warranty)
- The car has high mileage or is over 5 years old
- You're not mechanically confident
- The seller is rushing you
A professional pre-purchase inspection covers 150–200+ checkpoints, including a full OBD2 diagnostic scan, paint thickness readings, hoist inspection of the undercarriage, and a detailed written report with photos.
Frequently Asked Questions
A thorough DIY inspection takes 45–60 minutes. A professional pre-purchase inspection typically takes 60–90 minutes on-site, with the written report delivered within a few hours.
Yes. Most private sellers and dealers will allow a pre-purchase inspection before you commit. If a seller refuses, treat it as a serious red flag.
You have three options: negotiate a lower price to cover repairs, ask the seller to fix the issues before the sale, or walk away. A written inspection report gives you solid leverage in negotiations.
Almost always. A $200–$350 inspection can reveal faults that cost thousands to repair. It also gives you peace of mind — or the information you need to negotiate a better deal.
A PPSR check reveals if the car has finance owing on it, has been written off, or has been reported stolen. It does not tell you about the car’s mechanical condition — that’s what a physical inspection is for.
In most Australian states, the seller is required to provide a roadworthy certificate (or safety certificate in QLD) when selling a registered vehicle. However, a roadworthy only checks minimum safety standards — it does not cover mechanical condition, hidden damage, or fault codes.
A roadworthy certificate confirms the car meets minimum legal safety requirements. A pre purchase vehicle inspection is a comprehensive mechanical assessment that checks 150–200+ points and is designed to protect the buyer — not just confirm roadworthiness.
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